GOOD DRESS WHEN ON IS BIG AND MINCE

Sleeves too short, shirts too wide, it's often a hassle when you're bigger than average. So how do you dress when you're a tall, thin man? 

Dear readers, if you are over 1m75, but you are still in the featherweight category, or you have long arms, then we surely share the following problems...

THE TWO BIG PROBLEMS OF BIG AND MINCES

• When you try a shirt or jacket, it is either too wide And floats around the waist, or the size is appropriate, but the sleeves are too short.

• When you try on a pair of pants, it's either too short or too wide at the waist.

BASE TIPs FOR DRESS WHEN ON IS A MAN BIG AND MINCE

The most important thing: Choose clothes that fit the right size. A shirt that floats around your torso will not camouflage your thinness, but will instead make it even more visible; where a more fit and fitter garment will be much more flattering.

First step, dress at the right size.

MAN BIG AND FIN: HOW TO AVOID THE GREAT PERCH EFFET

There are plenty of tricks!

For starters, an example: the outfit that would suit you the least would be the suit, tie and striped shirt combo, all without a belt.

What for? Because it is an outfit whose all the lines that guide the look would be vertical. These lines refine the silhouette and accentuate the impression of "Mikado stick".

In practical terms, it is necessary add horizontality to your outfit. But first, let me introduce you to your new best friend...

The jacket. It is the essential garment for the tall and thin, it will draw you good shoulders, while structuring the whole upper body. It should be chosen well, and be particularly demanding on bending, as most jackets are not fastenough for large and fine physical.

Let's go back to the horizontality with some examples...

On T-shirts and sweaters, use horizontal stripes that will visually widen the bust.

On casual shirts, chest pockets a little worked make it possible to thicken the torso, and shoulder pads will make the shoulders look more voluminous.

The layering also works very well, with a T-shirt and shirt, or a cardigan, open under a jacket for example.

In terms of accessories, a beautiful belt light or showy colour will break the silhouette too long. Whilea voluminous scarf allows you to visually inflate the shoulders.

A handkerchief in the jacket pocket also catches the eye, and prevents it from looking at the silhouette from top to bottom.

Finally lapels or a hem your pants make it less to lengthen the leg (to avoid if you are small).

In this photo, we find all these tricks: an imposing collar and scarf that define beautiful shoulders; the hem on the jeans and the high shoes break the verticality of the silhouette.

THE CUPS ADJUSTED IN THE GAMME E-FINALS

Mass ready-to-wear brands are used to juggling hundreds of references per season (or even per month), and for them, it's not a concern to develop an entire line of slim fit clothing.

Almost all the brands (H-M, Mango, Zara, Celio, Gap, Jules, etc.) offer fitted cuts. We talk about slim cuts, fitted or fitted, sometimes even extra slim, etc. On the other hand, these terminologies are a real Micmac, and it is necessary always try before you buy. Do not rely on the labels and terms used!

Asos and Topman also offer a wide variety of cuts, sometimes with voluntarily very long T-shirts.

CHOOSE BRANDS THAT SIZE FOR THE BIG AND SLIM

Designer brands, on the other hand, rarely offer multiple cuts for their clothing. So, if you're not in the right shop, you're done.

In general, brands from the Nordic countries offer long enough clothes, surely to accommodate the slender physique of there.

Screen capture taken on the Acne brand website,
all the models are perfectly slender.

THE TOUCH-UP TO ADJUST THE SLEEVE OR PANTS LENGTH

Be careful, don't obsess over the length of your sleeves because if you wait until you find the perfect garment, you may have to wait a long time. When shopping in ready-to-wear, keep in mind that depending on your budget and what is on offer, you have to compromise.

In addition, if you are less than 1.85m, in most cases it will not be visually hyperchocking (you will be the only one to notice this).

Finally, you can always roll up your sleeves on jacket or shirt. In addition to eliminating the length problem, it tends to tighten the sleeve a little. And a well-fitted sleeve is better. 😉

For a jacket or a coat, it is much easier to adjust the length of the sleeves than to pick up the shoulders and bend.

There is generally 3 to 4 cm of extra material in the sleeves of coats or jackets. So you can gain 2 to 3 cm in length, and visually, that's enough to make a nice difference.

Advice for your purchases: if the shoulders fit you well and the bending is good, but the sleeves are a bit short, consider retouching.

4 cm on this jacket, enough already to lengthen the sleeve!

For a shirt : obviously, it is impossible to lengthen the sleeves (yes! we have not yet invented scissors to add fabric). However, if you find a shirt with sleeves and shoulders that fit you well, you can have the bend adjusted by adding bending pliers. It is a simple operation: we fold the excess fabric towards the inside of the shirt and we add a seam.

As for the pants : touching up the size to make it smaller is a fairly simple operation. Technically, it is therefore possible to buy pants that are a little wide at the waist and have them touch up. But suddenly, you may also need to refine the leg, depending on the narrowness of the leg at the base.

It is obviously easier to lengthen pants than to take them back at the waist, except that in general, there is very little material in the hem. Same problem as with the shirt sleeve, so it's up to you to check.