1
The seam ends at the shoulder. And you can place a finger between your neck and your collar. No more, no less.
2
The shirt is adjusted to the level of the chest. No or little tension on the buttons.
3
There is no excess fabric at the armpits and back. Attention, perfection does not exist !
4
Your sleeves stop at the level of the ulna (wrist bone).
HOW TO CHOOSE WELL HIS COLLAR ?
It's nothing complicated. For info, there are 3 passes to be dominant :
ITALIAN COLLAR
Often large, it will be very flared to leave room to tie off also. A model that perfectly suits the spheres bureaucratic. It is a collar very formal.
COL FRENCH
Recognizable by its opening less than 90°, it is straight, short and very versatile. This collar is compatible with the wearing of the costume, but you can also wear it as is.
COLLAR AMERICAN
Buttoned, it is suitable for shirts, casual. To avoid in formal occasions. And avoid to choose too high or too pointed.
Other ones less common :
CUT-AWAY COLLAR
More flared than its Italian counterpart, it highlights the tie or the bow tie that you wear.
STAND-UP COLLAR
Often associated with the col mao, he wants to be casual and must remain bare of any accessories.
CLUB COLLAR
It is the male equivalent of the peter pan collar : informal and dandy-inspired.
HOW TO PROPERLY CHOOSE ITS MATERIAL ?
For shirts formal :
POPLIN
The fabric is very strait and silky, see gloss. This is the most formal of all.
WIRE TO WIRE
More relaxed and airy than a poplin, it is a good compromise.
OXFORD
It is a fabric with the grain, the weaving often well-ventilated area. Perfect for shirts all-seasons.
CHAMBRAY
Much more casual, the chambray is woven with a colored wire and a white wire, for a visual effect interesting.
THE SHIRT OVER TIME
Over the centuries, the shirt goes through many transformations.
Used as an under-garment of the man (and means of distinction social) since Ancient times, it turns from the Sixteenth century, to become the end of the Nineteenth century the garment iconic as we know it.
Today's democratised, she knows many variations : the cuffs (the musketeers, a simple, beveled), col (French, English, american, button-down, Italian, cutaway, mao, officer), etc.
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